Motorcycle Maintenance 101

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A riding season is short enough without added time sappers like mechanical breakdowns. If you own a motorcycle, here are 10 things you need to do to assure your riding season remains glitch-free.  

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Tire pressure: While motorcycle tires may require about the same operating air pressure as car tires — roughly 35 psi — they are smaller and contain much less volume. All tires lose air naturally with time since air molecules are smaller than rubber molecules, thus allowing air to bleed through the tire itself. As such, pressure will drop quicker in motorcycle tires, so check them regularly — I recommend once a week — to extend the life of your tires and to prevent a catastrophic blowout. An inexpensive pencil-style pressure gauge is more than accurate enough for your needs.

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Tire condition: Rubber doesn’t last forever, so all tires have a date code. The four-digit date code is located on the sidewall of the tire, following the DOT marking and the tire’s serial number. The first two digits represent the week of the year, the second two represent the calendar year (1517, for instance, would be the 15th week of 2017). If a tire is older than six years, it’s time to replace it, regardless of the mileage accumulated or the tread depth. Also check tire wear: tread-wear indicators (TWI) are located around the circumference of the tire — if the tread has worn to the TWI bar, well, you know the drill.

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Oil level: Obvious you might think, but many motorcyclists neglect to check the oil level regularly. While car engines contain several litres of oil, some motorcycles contain as little as a litre and a half. It’s not unusual for some engines to consume about 1.5 litres between oil changes. In a car that’s no big deal; on a bike it can be catastrophic. Some bikes have a dipstick, some have a sight glass on the side of the engine. Check the level every couple of weeks.

Brake wear: Unlike a car, the brake pad linings are visible on a motorcycle without having to remove a wheel. Drop down and check their thickness from time to time; if they are worn down to 1.5 mm or less, they’re due for replacement. If you have an older model with drum brakes, they   usually have an easily visible wear indicator by the actuating lever at the wheel.

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Check lights: This next check should be carried out every time you take your bike out for a ride. Check that all the lights are working — high and low beams, turn signals, and tail and brake lights. The last one is critical because if your brake light is burnt out, no one behind you will know when you are slowing down or stopping. This could potentially lead to getting rear-ended by an inattentive driver, especially if you have to perform emergency braking.  

Throttle return: Twisting the right throttle grip rearward is what makes a motorcycle go forward. However, that throttle should return to its original position when released. If it does not — or it returns slowly or binds — the engine could possibly not decelerate, which could cause a safety hazard. Ensure the throttle can return freely to its stop, or maybe you’ll be the one doing the rear ending.

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Driveline maintenance: If your bike is chain driven, the chain will need occasional adjusting if it’s excessively loose. It will also need to be lubed at about every 500 kilometres, or following a ride in the rain. Aerosol chain lube is widely available and convenient to use, though engine or gear oil can be used as substitutes. Some bikes — mostly cruisers — use a drive belt rather than a chain. Drive belts typically need adjustment less frequently than a chain, if ever at all, and they need no lubrication. But, be wary if you ride on gravel roads, as an errant stone can get caught between the belt and its pulley, and either pierce or break the belt, both of which could leave you stranded.

If you see an oil leak...get it looked at quickly.

Shaft drive: A drive shaft is mostly maintenance-free, though the oil within does require occasional changing. If you see an oil leak, though, get it looked at quickly, or costly repairs are down the road if the gears run dry.

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Clutch lever: The clutch is either operated by a cable, or by hydraulic master cylinder. If it’s a cable-operated clutch, it’s imperative that the lever has a small amount of free play before beginning to engage the clutch. If the lever is taut, it can partially engage the clutch while at rest, which will then slip when under high load and eventually the clutch will fry (yes, that is a technical term). A tight lever will also put unnecessary strain on a tiny release bearing within the clutch assembly, and cause it to eventually fail. Both of those are costly repairs. A hydraulic clutch has no free play at the lever, so don’t go see a mechanic to adjust it if it’s tight, though, like the brakes, the fluid does require occasional replacement.

Get an owner’s manual: All of the specifications, maintenance intervals and procedures are located in the owner’s manual. If you do not have one for your bike, most manufacturers offer free downloads on their respective websites. If you have an older bike, an internet search will probably produce a few sources for a free digital manual for your bike. Most importantly, when you get one, take the time to read it.