Exploring the Bruce Peninsula in the 2022 Hyundai Palisade

Canada is full of amazing places, many of which are internationally renowned. Banff and Jasper National Parks, Niagara Falls, and Quebec City come to mind, just to name a few.

Tobermory, Ontario, used to be a better-kept secret, but it seems we’ll soon be able to add it to that list: it was recently named to TripAdvisor’s 2021 Travellers’ Choice list of the top 25 emerging destinations. It was already a battle to secure accommodations and parking reservations for Bruce Peninsula’s most popular spots, and now it looks like the pool of visitors competing for access is about to get a whole lot bigger.

How does a road tripper seeking the beauty and serenity of nature make the most of this gem without being driven out by crowds and frustrations? There is a solution: make the trip in the autumn. Sure, with the weather being cooler you’ll have to give up going for a swim, and a handful of the local amenities close at the end of the summer. But in exchange you’ll find fewer people, far fewer bugs, and friendlier weather for the world-class hiking opportunities that make the Bruce Peninsula so special.

I came away with the weekend with only a handful of minor complaints. First, after achieving single-digit fuel consumption in the various 2022 Nissan Pathfinders I spent roughly 3,000 kilometres in this summer, I was hopeful I might achieve the same here. Sadly, I missed the mark by landing at 10.7 L/100 km, slightly below NRCan’s estimate of 11.1 L/100 km combined, despite going more than 500 kilometres on 80 km/h country roads ideal for fuel saving. This is still quite good for an SUV of this size, but it’s possible to do better.

I’ve made a few comparisons here between the Palisade and Pathfinder, and there will be a lot more coming when we put them head-to-head in an upcoming comparison test. For now, I’m happy to report that it’s still easy to recommend the Palisade as a comfortable and versatile vehicle for active families.

There are a few signature experiences that send people flocking to the Bruce Peninsula to see for themselves.

The most famous by a long shot is the Grotto, one of several caves carved into the dolomite rock faces of the peninsula’s Georgian Bay shoreline. The easiest hike from the parking area is along the Georgian Bay Trail, a 1.5-kilometre gravel pathway that can be walked in just under half an hour. Indian Head Cove is along the same trail and is a popular spot for swimming (yes, even in early October, though the park recommends against swimming anywhere on Georgian Bay). These spots and many more along the Georgian Bay shore are lined with rocky cliffs and outcroppings, and the views over the turquoise water are so pristine you could believe for a moment you’d been transported to the Caribbean. The approach from the other side on the Marr Lake Trail is properly challenging with plenty of grades, exposed rocks and roots, and a climb through loose rocks at Boulder Beach. It’s hard work, but it’s rewarding.

Bruce Peninsula National Park is the headline attraction, but it’s only one of two protected areas here: the waters off the northern tip of the peninsula form Fathom Five National Marine Park, which became Canada’s first federally-protected national marine conservation area when it was established in 1987.

Unsurprisingly, the best way to explore Fathom Five is by boat. If you don’t happen to have one at your disposal, several private operators offer guided tours that depart from Tobermory. We sailed with Bruce Anchor Cruises via a stay-aboard ticket on the Tobermory Evolution, a two-tiered boat with massive open windows and sections with a glass floor, which creates a view of the shipwrecks it passes over in Big Tub Harbour. (Note that only some sections of the boat are glass-bottomed and seating is not reserved, though there was plenty of space on the reduced-capacity sailing we took during COVID-19 restrictions.)

I booked a stay-aboard cruise because the weather was supposed to be miserable during our visit, and I came to regret it: at the last minute, the rain pushed off and we had a gloriously sunny and cool day that would have been perfect for a hop-on, hop-off visit to Fathom Five’s crown jewel, Flowerpot Island. Here, hiking trails give access to two “flowerpots” — stacks of exposed rock created by centuries of erosion. A handful of rudimentary on-island campsites are available, and some caves and a historic lightstation would typically be open to visits if not for COVID-19. Most features are visible along the coast, though, so hopping off the boat isn’t essential to taking it all in.

Finally, there’s the village of Tobermory itself, which is gaining renown for its main street lined with unique shops selling everything from handmade jewelry to books, candy and ice cream, and microbrew beer. Apart from the famous Fish and Chip Place, which closed early this year due to a supply issue, most everything else runs well into October on reduced hours. Be sure to pay for parking in town as the meter monitors are very active year-round, and don’t arrive on the peninsula low on fuel: gas stations are infrequent and pricier than in more populated areas.

The lesser-known parts

Arriving on the peninsula with reservations in hand is strongly recommended, but there will always be people who don’t. Fortunately, there are places to visit beyond the obvious.

One common backup plan is Halfway Log Dump, another spot within the national park that’s accessible via an easy 30-minute trail found at the end of an 8 km gravel road. Like the Grotto, this site also requires reservations during the busier summer months.

Those looking for a more traditional swimming area should look to Singing Sands beach, which is located in a sheltered inlet on the peninsula’s Lake Huron side. This is one example of Lake Huron’s beaches, with spectacular sunsets and water that stays calm and shallow for several hundred metres from the shore. It’s especially interesting to come here after visiting the Georgian Bay side to observe the vast geological differences between the two.

The full length of the peninsula’s Georgian Bay coast is home to a portion of the Bruce Trail, which spans 900 kilometres from Tobermory south along the Niagara Escarpment to end in Queenston, just north of Niagara Falls. Visitors with the experience, stamina, and research skills to tackle it will find trail highlights worth visiting outside the park’s boundaries, including Lion’s Head Lookout, Greig’s Caves, and Devil’s Monument, among others.

Toward the south end of the peninsula on the Lake Huron side, Sauble Falls Provincial Park provides stunning views of the namesake falls along the Sauble River, which are within easy access of the road and parking areas. Situated an hour from Tobermory and less than 10 minutes from Sauble Beach, this park could be a great choice as an alternate home base for visiting the Bruce.

Most visitors to this region will head north on some combination of Highway 10 and Highway 6. The latter passes through the community of Wiarton, whose claim to fame is Wiarton Willie, an albino groundhog who is among those said to predict a longer winter or early spring each February 2nd on Groundhog Day. Wiarton’s festival was founded in 1956 when a party-goer tossed his wife’s fur hat into the snow — it’s a fantastic story worth looking up — and today’s Willie lives in an enclosure in Bluewater Park. Or, at least, he’s meant to. While we were peering through the glass, a local wandered by and informed us that Willie hasn’t been seen in more than a year, a detail that was evidently glossed over when this year’s Groundhog Day ceremony was streamed virtually. Amid the scandal, a successor will surely be found before long, as has happened many times over the past 50-plus years. In the meantime, a monument to the original Willie sits on the park’s waterfront, and Wiarton’s famed candy store Northern Confections is a short walk away among the shops lining Highway 6.

To see something even more wacky, check out Big Bruce. This 15-foot-tall statue of a giant bull began its life on parade floats touring fall fairs, Santa Claus Parades, and other local events as he promoted Bruce County’s thriving cattle industry. In a poll hosted by TVOntario, Big Bruce was recently voted Ontario’s best roadside attraction in a bracket-style showdown.

My daughter and I drove to Chelsey, Ontario to visit Big Bruce, and pondered this status with bewilderment. He stands alone in a village, set in front of two municipal offices and a gas station. How did Big Bruce get selected for such a high honour over well-known attractions like the Big Nickel, the Big Apple, and the Wawa Goose? I suspect shenanigans: Bruce’s fans were clearly responsible for beefing up his votes.