Your Corner Wrench: Keeping straight with your home alignment
Demystifying one of the scariest precision jobs for the home DIY-er
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Home driveway mechanics will tackle just about any repair or maintenance job, depending on their skill, tools, and bravery. Few, however, are interested in swapping out any components that affect wheel alignment, and I have yet to see a DIY home shop I know of has wheel alignment or balancing equipment. Even a simple outer tie rod end replacement can risk aggressive wear on tires, even on a short jaunt to the nearest professional shop to get the wheels straightened out. But now that spring tire season is in full swing, along with warmer weather that makes open-air tinkering pleasurable, there are a few ways to take care of some routine steering and suspension maintenance without ruining a new or good set of tires.
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When replacing any threaded steering linkage or component such as inner or outer tie rod ends, the easiest way to keep the alignment specs reasonable (at least accurate enough for the drive to the alignment shop) is to use the same parts’ manufacturer as the one you’re replacing and count the number of turns required to remove the original. Then install the new one with an identical number of turns. Alternatively, if a lock nut is used, be careful to keep it as close to its original position as possible when removing the part and use it as a back-stop when installing the new.
A magnetic angle gauge can come in handy when swapping out suspension components that can affect the vertical angle of a wheel, known as the camber angle. Many types of struts use camber bolts to attach them and it’s often difficult to replicate the factory settings by counting threads. Mount the gauge on the wheel face, with the vehicle on the ground and replicate that setting when adjusting the camber bolts after the new install to help provide a setting for the drive to the shop. You may need to find another attachment method, other than a magnet when dealing with alloy wheels. A small dab of adhesive will work, but to be as accurate as possible, you’ll need to leave the gauge on the wheel while the repairs are being completed and then switch it to the other side if you’re replacing a pair.
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Some DIY types are hesitant to put new tires on before heading to an alignment shop after completing some steering/suspension repairs, not wanting to risk even a short run that may cause uneven wear. The problem with trying to complete an alignment on old pattern-worn tires is that it eliminates the value of a post-adjustment road-test as those worn boots will likely cause their own pull or drift. But if you’re installing new rubber as part of your spring restoration, let the pro shop put them on before the alignment to be able to verify their success. After all, you’re not likely to have tire installation and balancing equipment in your home shop anyway.